From Butter Bombs to Brightness: Our Chardonnay Philosophy

California Chardonnay has undergone a dramatic transformation over the past few decades—from the rich, buttery powerhouses of the 1980s to today’s nuanced, terroir-driven styles. At the heart of this evolution is Sta. Rita Hills, and at the center of that cool-climate movement is Matt Brady, head winemaker at SAMsARA Wine Co.

A Turning Point in California Chardonnay

Once defined by bold oak and full malolactic fermentation, California Chardonnay reached a tipping point in the early 2000s. As tastes shifted and a new generation sought fresher, more balanced wines, producers began rethinking how the grape could express itself—especially in cooler regions like Santa Barbara County.

By the mid-2010s, winemakers across California were embracing a “neo-Burgundian” approach. The focus shifted to showcasing vineyard character through restrained winemaking. Grapes were harvested earlier to preserve acidity and moderate alcohol, while fermentation and aging took place in neutral vessels like old oak or stainless steel to avoid overpowering oak flavor. The goal was clear: achieve balance through fruit purity, minerality, and bright acidity, while adding just enough texture to keep the wines satisfying.

In this context, Sta. Rita Hills stood out as a natural fit. Its coastal climate and unique soils offered all the elements needed to produce Chardonnays that delivered freshness, structure, and a strong sense of place. It became a key player in the state’s Chardonnay renaissance.

Why Sta. Rita Hills Matters

Sta. Rita Hills’ east-west valley pulls in ocean fog and cool winds, creating one of the longest growing seasons in California. The result? Grapes with full flavor at lower sugar levels—translating to naturally low alcohol and vibrant acidity. Combined with marine sediment soils rich in diatomaceous earth and limestone, the region produces wines with a signature stony minerality, citrus brightness, and saline notes.

Matt Brady describes Chardonnay as the perfect grape to express the essence of Sta. Rita Hills. At SAMsARA, he’s harnessed this terroir to create wines that are crisp, layered, and reflective of place.

SAMsARA’s Chardonnay Journey

When SAMsARA released its first Chardonnay in 2017, it was a carefully considered move. Known for small-lot Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Grenache, the winery had not truly ventured into white wine—until Matt and owners Dave and Joan Szkutak saw the opportunity to craft something distinct.

They wanted a wine that mirrored their own preferences: no overripe fruit and no excessive oak. Just clean, acid-driven Chardonnay that lets the Sta. Rita Hills shine. Fruit was sourced exclusively from within the AVA, including standout vineyards like Zotovich, Donnachadh, and Kessler-Haak.

From the start, the approach was deliberate:

• No new oak—only neutral French barrels to allow subtle oxygenation and texture.
• Stirring lees daily—stirring lees during fermentation to build a creamy mid-palate and mouthfeel

This balance between brightness and body became the signature of SAMsARA’s Chardonnay program.

Our Winemaking Approach Today

Since that inaugural vintage, the winemaking philosophy has remained consistent—but the execution has become even more focused. Today, Matt continues to:

• Harvest early to retain acidity and achieve modest alcohol (often ~12.9–13%).
• Use neutral barrels exclusively for fermentation and aging.
• Incorporate malolactic fermentation for roundness and subtle cream notes.
• Foot treading before going into the press to build more texture and weight

   

What’s evolved is vineyard sourcing. As vines have matured and access to exceptional blocks has grown, SAMsARA now bottles single-vineyard Chardonnays from standout sites like Bentrock, known for bracing minerality and low yields. 

Despite coming from a background in red wine, Matt is now a firm believer in Chardonnay’s potential, especially in this region. His commitment to purity, restraint, and site expression has helped make SAMsARA a leading name in Santa Barbara’s Chardonnay renaissance.

Looking Ahead

As Santa Barbara County continues to define its own identity in the Chardonnay world, SAMsARA remains focused on refining a style that’s fresh, layered, and unmistakably coastal. For those who once swore off California Chardonnay, our wines offer a compelling reason to come back.